May 31, 2009

Looks Good: Monkey Bread

Uploaded to Flickr by slicedgeek on May 28, 2009.

According to the Food Timeline:

The first peoples to make sweet, buttery rolls with cinnamon were ancient Middle Eastern cooks. These recipes and spices traveled to Europe in the Middle Ages with crusaders, travelers, traders and explorers. German kuchen, French galette, Pennsylvania Dutch sticky buns, and monkey bread all descended from these old recipes. [In the United States] monkey bread became popular (by that name) in the 1980s, presumably because Nancy Reagan served them at the White House.

There are many theories about the origin of the name, one of which appeared in the New York Times in 2003:

Since monkeys are known for gleefully pulling at, well, everything, it makes sense that an audience-participation loaf should be called monkey bread. Formed of balls of dough and baked in a ring mold, monkey bread emerges as golden puffs that are irresistible to both hand and eye. The idea is that you pick it apart like a bunch of...that it's more fun than a barrel of...You get the idea.

Ingredients
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup sugar
2 sticks of butter
2-3 teaspoons cinnamon
3 cans of non-flaky buttermilk biscuits (or use homemade dough)

Go to The Pioneer Woman.com for instructions.

May 28, 2009

Becoming a Community Chef (Post 3)

The Great Performances Kitchen.

Last week, Just Food Community Chefs visited Great Performances in Lower Manhattan for a cooking demonstration.

Great Performances was founded in 1979 by photographer Liz Neumark. Originally known as Great Performances: Artists as Waitresses, the company offered a way for women in the arts to supplement their meager incomes with work in the developing catering industry. Today, Great Performances is the largest off premise catering company in New York City and the fourth-largest independent catering firm in the country. The company—recognizing women and men equally—remains committed to its mission in the arts while working to elevate hospitality to an art form in itself. Their clients include BAM Café, Jazz at Lincoln Center, Sotheby’s, Asia Society and Wave Hill.

A salad prepared by Chris Harkness of Great Performances.

Executive Chef Chris Harkness lead the demonstration, showing us how to prepare a Green Jacket salad with heirloom tomatoes, grilled asparagus, baby radishes and pea tendrils, lightly dressed in a citrus vinaigrette. (Great Performances has its own 6o-acre organic farm in upstate New York that yields a large portion of the produce used in their kitchen.) While the session provided the group with some very helpful cooking tips, it also extended our discussion about the benefits of local (and seasonal) eating. For instance, the shorter distance that fruits and vegetables travel to reach our plates, the greater their nutrients and flavor; less shipping and packaging mean fewer damaging effects to the environment; and a food system develops that supports local farmers. However cost, lack of accessibility and/or absence of food education prevent many Americans from eating this way. Not to mention that local eating can sometimes sound like another fancy diet trend.

Veggies beforehand.

The local food movement is often called “the new organic," which does little to earn converts; the number one argument against organic food is that only the wealthy can afford it. According to 100-Mile dieters, Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon (who define "local" as food grown or made within a 100-mile radius of where you live), "There’s an assumption that going local is only for people with time and money to spare. Somehow we’ve forgotten that cooking your own meals and putting away food for winter used to be considered thrifty things to do." Indeed. But eating locally today certainly has it challenges; much has changed in matters of production and access since the good ol' days of food. Writer Debbie Elkind says, "The fact that [local eating is] the latest trend in ethical eating is somewhat ironic, when you consider that it’s merely eating the way our ancestors once did."

Speaking of ancestors, I don't know about yours, but mine ate dessert (with white sugar and real butter) in addition to their fresh fruits and vegetables. I started to wonder: Has the new rhetoric for eating local been tweaked to fit within our current culture of deprivation (in the name of health), and our negative thinking about sweets, or will the pleasures of cooking and eating dessert that our ancestors actually embraced remain? In a 2002 Times of London article, titled Let Them Eat Sweets, Tim Richardson wrote:

Cookies and brownies headed to Wave Hill.

[The] demonising of sweets is relatively new—for some 3,000 years sugar was considered almost universally to be a valuable, health-giving energy food with an extremely pleasant taste...Public health bodies [today] believe (correctly) that people often choose sugary foods and drinks over alternatives that might be fresher, or richer in vitamins and minerals, and (incorrectly) that scaring people about the evils of sugar will make them change their ways and start consuming these healthier foods instead.

It follows that reductionist thinking about food as either "good" or "bad" has given Americans (and the British too) the wrong ideas about how to eat, and has made us an unhealthy society. (This is key in Michael Pollan's book, In Defense of Food.) But, from what I glean, today's local food movement truly advocates pleasure alongside health in eating; I have found plenty of locavores on the web that offer fabulous dessert recipes and welcome new ones. As Chef Harkness talked about green markets and local produce, I was pleased to look around the Great Performances kitchen and see berry tarts with crumble topping, small frosted cakes, and other confections in the works. In this kitchen dessert is definitely still on the menu.

_______________________________

A recipe from Great Performances:

Rhubarb Cobbler with Roasted Strawberries

Filling
1 Lb. Rhubarb stalks, wash, trim ends and discard leaves as they are poisonous
2/3 cup Sugar
1 Tbsp All-Purpose Flour
1 tsp Cinnamon powder
1/2 tsp Orange Zest
1/8 tsp Ground Ginger

Topping
8 oz Light Brown Sugar
8 oz Granulated Sugar
1 1/4 oz Honey
1/8 oz Vanilla Extract
7 1/2 oz Butter
4 oz Vegetable Shortening
1 Lb All-Purpose Flour
1/4 oz Salt
5 oz Quick Cooking Oats

Roasted Strawberries
15 large Strawberries, stems removed
1/2 Tbsp Melted Butter
3 Tbsp Sugar

Go to The Dish for instructions.

May 27, 2009

Eye Candy: Chien-Chi Chang

Chien-Chi Chang, "A newly arrived immigrant eats noodles on a fire escape, New York City," 1998. © Chien-Chi Chang/Magnum Photos.

Magnum photographer Chien-Chi Chang will exhibit new work from his China Town series at this year's Venice Biennale.

Chang is perhaps best known for this series, a seventeen-year work in progress that chronicles illegal workers living in New York City. The project began when he met a handful of men who lived in a single tenement apartment in China Town. He ate with them and slept on their floor, helped them with English language phone calls and forms and slowly began to photograph them. Years later, when Chang received the W. Eugene Smith Award, he went to visit the villages where the wives and children of these men live. The families are photographed in color, and the men in black and white. Chang says, “I have become a messenger between these divided families.”

Continue reading about the project here; and see the Biennale diptychs here.

May 22, 2009

Cupcakes on Wheels


Oh my goodness! Beginning June 3, New York will have its first mobile shoppe devoted solely to cupcakes.

Cupcake Stop wants to make life easier for busy New Yorkers by offering a convenient way to enjoy cupcakes. Committed to using the freshest and highest quality ingredients, creator Lev Ekster claims you won't find a taste like this anywhere else. The menu includes flavors like Psychedelic Tie Dye, Triple Chocolate, Oreo Crumb, Peanut Butter & Jelly, and White Chocolate Raspberry Swirl to name only a few. Every cupcake sold is fresh and any unsold treats will be donated to City Harvest. And just when you thought it couldn't get better: Cupcake Stop uses Twitter to keep followers informed of the truck's location.

I can't wait for to this truck to roll my way.

A Mixed Bag (5.22.09)

Shinique Smith, From the exhibition Ten Times Myself, 2009. Courtesy of Yvon Lambert.

Bundles and Beats: New works by Shinique Smith are on view at Yvon Lambert, with a concurrent exhibiton of vinyl record sculptures by Michael Brown. Through July 31.

The World Tour: The Munchmobile cupcake tour stops in New Jersey.

Making Worlds: Get ready to make the rounds in Italy. The 53rd Venice Biennale opens to the public on June 7.

Garden on Wheels: A planter box for your handlebars. [via Boing Boing]

Olympic Poles: This sweet new competition should ruffle some feminist feathers.

Hard to Beat: A brownie with chocolate mousse filling and a peanut-butter mousse center, covered in a chocolate ganache wins a Virginia taste test.

Tweet the Mona Lisa: Mario Klingemann gives the lady a new look. [via Webmonkey]

Oprah's Got Tweets Too.

Another First: The first African American female rabbi in the world.

Little Things in Life: A small adult was denied a kid size hot chocolate at Starbucks.

Patty Cakes: Four little confections that look like truffles.

Mini Art: Jeremy Mora on Art MoCo.

Eat Sweets for Art: Arty-smarty Joann Kim has organized a bake sale to benefit the India Street Mural Project. Takes place Saturday, May 23.

Art News: A paint machine controlled remotely through a BBC mini-site engages teens in collaborative art making.

Good Gadgets: A Swiss (Chocolate) Knife set.

Llyod's Legos: The Lego Architecture series is on sale at the Guggenheim. [via Arts Journal]

Helen Levitt at The Met.

Furlough at the Baltimore Art Museum
.

Economy Crunch: Caramel popcorn, drizzled in chocolate and sprinkled with pink Himalayan salt from Three Tarts Bakery + Boutique. [via Tasting Table]

The Edible Garden: A summer-long exhibition at the New York Botanical Garden. Begins June 27.

Brooklyn Book Deal: Looks like we're getting a cookbook.

NYC Zine Fest '09: Join the fundraising party on May 29 at the Brooklyn Lyceum.

Waffling on WiFi: New talk about free WiFi in NYC parks.

Sun Shines in Seattle: Works by Corin Hewitt and Titus Kaphur are on view at the Seattle Art Museum through late August/early September.

Curio Confections: A new business venture by 22-year old Seattle resident, Maria Friedman.

Seasonal Breakfast: Strawberry Sour Cream Scones with Brown Sugar Crumble.

Clotted Cream: To top the scones, of course.

Pathways to Unknown Worlds: Works by departed artist/musician Sun Ra are on view at the Philadelphia ICA. Continues through August 2.

Remembering Ms. Lopez: The "world's oldest blogger" passes away at 97.

May 19, 2009

Looks Good: Strawberries

Image courtesy of Life's Ambrosia.


May 20 is National Pick Strawberries Day. Strawberry season, which is already underway in California and the Southern half of the United States, usually begins late May/early June in the North. New Yorkers can find local farms that let you pick your berries at Pick Your Own.Org. After gathering your harvest, these recipes might come in handy:

Strawberry and Nutella Wontons
12 wonton wrappers
1 cup sliced strawberries
Nutella
Water for sealing the wrappers
Oil for frying (or use Phyllo Dough in place of wonton wrappers and bake)

Instructions at Life's Ambrosia.com

Strawberry Risotto
1 stick unsalted butter, divided
2 cups Arborio rice
1/4 cup fruity white wine or sparkling wine
2 baskets strawberries, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise
3 cups water
3 cups milk
3 tablespoons sugar, divided
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup cream

Instructions at KCRW.com

Strawberry-Buttermilk Gelato
2 cups sugar
2 cups water
5 cups quartered strawberries (about 4 pints)
2 cups low-fat buttermilk

Instructions at My Recipes.com

May 16, 2009

The Quite Frankly Bar


As good as it looks (and smells), you probably don't want to eat this chocolaty chunk. Quite Frankly is a bar of soap.

Infused with organic chocolate, peppermint and frankincense, this is one of many luscious products offered by australianScent, a natural skin care company with roots in Houston, TX and Brooklyn, NY. The eco-friendly business is owned and operated by husband and wife team Eddie and Megan Enriquez. The duo specialize in hand crafted, small batch, cold processed formulas that maximize the nutritional and healing properties of their raw ingredients. Their line of moisturizing body bars - dubbed "food for the skin" - includes Ayers Rock, a blend of cocoa butter, turmeric, organic honey and sweet paprika with added orange, nutmeg, lemon and clove; and Java Bar, an exfoliating combination of coffee and oats.

Added May 18, 2009: This is the best $8 I've spent so far this year.

May 14, 2009

A Mixed Bag (5.14.09)

Zineb Sedira, Shipwreck series, 2009. Courtesy of the artist and Iniva.

Currents of Time: An exhibition of new video, photography and light box works by Zineb Sedira. Opens May 21 at the Institute of International Visual Arts (Iniva).

Brace Yourselves: Food, Inc., a new film about the American food industry is coming to a theater near you.

Chocolate Fuel: For real.

Sweet Relief: Prompted by the recession, Mars is giving away a quarter-million full-size packages of its chocolate treats as part of their "Chocolate Relief Act."

The Cost of Free Labor: The bid for a Huffington Post internship is $13,000.

Hiring Freezes be Damned: Jobs at the Guggenheim, Montclair Art Museum and The Met are posted on Idealist.

Eat beyond your means because "a crane could fall on you tomorrow," says The Insatiable Critic.

Chili's in India is just wrong. In fact, Chili's is wrong in any country.

Blagojevich's Legal Team: The man that can save R. Kelly from jail can surely help in this case.

Porn Saps Manliness: The Art of Manliness contemplates the problem with porn.

An Old Busty Woman: Archaeologists in Germany may have found the world's oldest figurine.

A Strange Case Indeed: Forest Whitaker and 50 Cent to star in Jekyll and Hyde.

In the Boogie Down: Bartered States features works by Ronald Morán, Simón Vega, Walterio and Danny Zavaleta. On view at the Bronx River Art Center through June 20.

Goin' Downtown: The annual Taste of Tribeca culinary festival is this weekend. Be sure to grab a bite from Bar Artisanal (a new favorite of mine). May 16, 11:30am-3pm.

Walk for the Kids: A Madison Avenue art walk will raise funds for arts education in New York City public schools. May 16, 11am-6pm.

Art Smart: Can the benefits of arts education be measured scientifically?

Not for the Playground: Drug-laced candy is growing in popularity.

Crazy Creative Cupcakes.

Burnt Sugar Cake: A Gramma Goose recipe.

Négritude: An exhibition that explores the 1930s political and artistic movement of the same name. Opens May 20 at Exit Art.

Big plans to revive the British seaside town of Margate that was once home to artists J.M.W. Turner and Tracey Emin.

Stupid Plans: Peru will ban gay men and women from the police force.

Commune: Curator Dominique Nahas assembles works that address the various social bonds that bring us together. Opens May 21 at Black and White Gallery.

Churros: A recipe by a former Brooklynite.

May 13, 2009

Becoming a Community Chef (Post 2)

Apple Honey Challah Bread. Image courtesy of Baking and Books.com

The first two sessions of the Community Chef training program amounted to nearly 14 hours of discussion and activities with great meals in between (though not much in the dessert department). The 2009 chefs-in-training come from every borough and all walks of life, ranging from food pantry employees and graduate students in anthropology, to regular New York City residents like me. While we share the desire to become better food educators and cooks for our families and communities, this program is the first step toward a larger personal goal: to establish a cooking and food education program for children of low-income families in Brooklyn. Here, they will learn to prepare affordable, healthy, tasty meals and, of course, confections. There are already similar programs in New York and other major cities in the United States, but given the high levels of illness and obesity that continue to plague low income communities, partially due to lack of access to good food, there is still work to be done.

I didn't think that my work in museum education would be relevant in the Community Chef program, that is, not until the group began to discuss the limitations of didactic texts and recipes and the importance of hands-on experience. Participatory learning -- when audiences are given an active role in shaping the lesson, interpretation and/or experience -- seems natural in the context of cooking. (I wish more museums would embrace it wholeheartedly). I was struck when a fellow chef said, "You can't even assume that everyone can read." Her comment made me take a step back to question the reach of my own writing in and outside of museums. Food like art has the power to change lives; I suppose my life's work is to share the goodness of both with as many people as possible.

The Goodness of Honey
Just Food and food activists around the city are working to spread the word about the benefits of honeybees. They are also asking people to sign a petition to legalize beekeeping in New York City. Honeybees help gardens grow more fruit and vegetables and the sweet yellow liquid they produce is key in the following recipe:

Apple Honey Challah Bread
1/2 tablespoon active dry yeast
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
4 1/4 to 4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup of warm milk
2 eggs + 1 for the glaze
4 tablespoons of olive oil + 1 teaspoon for greasing the bowl and another for the glaze
3/4 tablespoon dark wildflower honey
1/2 cup diced organic dry apples

Get instructions (and some extra info about challah bread) at Baking and Books.

May 10, 2009

Looks Good: Chocolate Chip Pancakes


What: Chocolate Chip Pancakes with peanut butter foam, caramelized bananas and fresh berries (above); Rum French Toast with maple pecans, blueberry compote and mascarpone.

Where
: Fat Hippo, 71 Clinton St (btwn Rivington & Stanton), New York, NY.

When: Brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 4pm.

May 8, 2009

Review: The Box (Texas)

Coke Wisdom O'Neal, David Renk, 2009. C-print, 1/8 x 29 inches, edition 2/538.

Read my review of The Box (Texas), an exhibition of new photographs by Coke Wisdom O'Neal, in today's issue of ...might be good. An excerpt:

In the latest iteration of Coke Wisdom O’Neal’s The Box series, The Indian in the Cupboard seems an obvious, though unfortunate, reference. O’Neal began shooting his Box series portraits in New York City almost four years ago. When he began the project in Manhattan, he photographed friends, family and, with a little help from Craigslist, eager strangers. But every passerby was welcome to step inside this outdoor structure and have their picture taken. The resulting portraits, which are free of digital manipulation, bring to mind Lilly Tomlin’s rocking chair character “Edith Ann,” and the 1980s cartoon The Littles. Sitters become miniature curiosities and the gallery the proverbial cabinet.

The Box (Texas) is on view at Mixed Greens through May 23.

May 5, 2009

Chai: Anjali Bhargava

Ladies Compartment #1, 2006. Digital C-Print.

Anjali Bhargava makes amazing chai though her real skill is in making pictures. She has spent the last 15 years capturing a wide array of subjects, from women's feet and lips to train cars abroad.

Bhargava learned techniques of photojournalism while studying at the S.I. Newhouse School of Public Communications at Syracuse University. She has since worked as a photo editor, studio manager, and producer, receiving assignments for prestigious publications such as New York Times Magazine. Currently based in Brooklyn, Bhargava has worked with the the New York chapter of the South Asian Women's Creative Collective for the past decade and currently sits on their board of directors. Following is my conversation with the artist in her home and studio, where she walked me through her portfolio and then whipped up a delicious chai (recipe included here).

Dancers Feet, 2007. Digital C-Print.

Contemporary Confections: Let’s start by talking about your current exhibition Beauty and Danger at Sunita Bar.

Anjali Bhargava: I'm showing four images from the the Lips series, and some images from the Corset and Feet series.

South Asian Women's Creative Collective just had a literary festival called Stranger Love. Our regular designer was unavailable, so I said, 'Okay, I'll do it.' I’m not a designer, but I can do the basic stuff.

I knew that I would need an image to work with, so I started thinking about the ideas behind the title. In the South Asian context there’s all kinds of references that “stranger love” can make, like arranged marriage. There's also the process of love between two strangers, that is, love at first sight. For writers, it's trying to share your voice and labor of love with strangers. There are a number of meanings in that title.

I thought it would be cool do something were there’s a barrier between your voice or mouth and the audience. I had the idea to photograph lips behind Saran Wrap. I photographed myself -- and almost suffocated. In some of the pictures I was literally gasping for air. Funny, people's reactions to it have been broad.

CC: Like what?

AB: Generally for men asphyxiation comes to mind. But someone else thought it was a dental damn. I think it is sexy but some people have said the image is disturbing. People don’t always get that these are lips. For me, it’s almost as much about the lipstick and the stigma around the color. Red lipstick can send a very specific message...

Untitled from the Corset series, 2008. Digital C-print. 

CC: The marks in this image are the result of wearing a corset?

AB: Yes. They were left after she had it on for only a half hour. This is a pivotal image in the Corset series. What it comes down to is the mark something like this makes on us. There are so many things that we do for beauty. Corsets are a quirky example. They have a history of being very damaging though they are undeniably beautiful. And like a great pair of heels, wearing a corset can make you feel like a million bucks. It makes you walk, stand, and interact with people differently.

CC: How do you select your subjects?

AB: A lot of them are just people I meet in life. Sometimes they are people I've met at parties. I’ve been interested in scars for the last 15 years, so I constantly put it out there in conversation. I can be kind of rude because I stare. But I love watching people and body language. There was a woman at friend’s barbecue who was wearing long satin gloves. I went up to her and said, 'Hi. Why are you wearing gloves?' She turned out to be a hand and foot model. She had some fun shoes so we played one day.

For the project Unsuitable Girls that I worked on with [artist] Swati Khurana -- she made the trophies that appear in the photographs for different types of “unsuitables” -- I put out a call listing trophy categories and asked women to nominate themselves.  Women wrote to me saying why they were, for example, 'Most Reluctant Housekeeper,' 'Most Disheveled Child,' or 'Least Dutiful Wife.' I photographed many of them in their homes.

Birthmark, 2007. Digital C-print.

CC: How often do you adjust your images to, for instance, make your subject’s nose appear thinner or lips more pouty?

AB: If a client asks me to change something, I will. If I don’t have to retouch, I prefer not to. I have fixed someone’s chin before. I'm very careful about that though. My photographs are honest documentation of a person and they are [generally] proud to have that image represent them. I think that’s a valid thing to being doing but it’s hard to feel embraced by the art world. I’m sort of in between genres. People say, 'Your portraits are pretty." I’m like, 'Yeah, they are.' They are quiet and a lot of them are not political or conceptual. I no longer feel like I have to justify myself.

CC: What’s the average number of photographs that you take in a year?

AB: It depends on the year and how many shoots I have. 6,000-10,000 frames could be an extremely slow year or a really busy week. My average portrait shoot is 400-500 frames.

I travel a lot and photograph [when I'm away]. As an adult I have been able to see more of India, even simple things like the ladies compartment of the trains, which I never experienced as a child traveling with my family. Most of my trips have been to India but feel like I still have a lot to see and experience there.

Ladies Compartment #3, 2006. Digital C-Print.
Train, 2005. Digital C-Print.


CC: What kind of changes have you seen in the field since you started?

AB: There’s a lot more crap. Really, you look at the old masters and -- granted they probably had lots of bad frames as we all do -- but there was integrity and craftsmanship in what they shared. You really had everything. Their images were beautiful and meaningful. The graphic element is there and the lighting is impeccable. Bad lighting is one of those things that kills me because it’s very important and can help covey your message. I have certain instincts from working in photography for 15 years. Now, I have many ideas about what I would like to do in video. But I don’t have the same technical set and I’m a little intimidated. Although I see a lot of video work and wonder why I’m intimidated by it.

I just saw the Edward Steichen show at the International Center for Photography. He had a journalism background too, I think. He started working for Condé Nast and made a lot of the famous Vogue images. His work is considered to be art, fashion, and also journalistic. Photographers like him did it all and with a consistent voice. Now it’s like the photojournalists think they can be sloppy because it’s about content. Artists think they can be sloppy too because, again, it’s about content. Fashion photographers ironically are master technicians. The people that are making the big bucks know how to manipulate light. They know how to manipulate everything.

It’s hard for me to determine where my work fits. I’m happy to shoot a Jimmy Choo commercial campaign and I’m happy to have my personal work hanging in galleries and museums. In the long term, I just want to be known as a good photographer and not have my work pigeonholed one way or another ... Ready for some chai?

CC: Sure!

AB: I use 1/3 to 1/4 cups milk to one cup of boiled water -- the proportion depends on the kind of milk you're using. Sugar -- I like to cook in to the mix because it tastes different that way. Ginger -- I freeze it because I find it easier to grate. Cardamom seeds, cloves, and a little black pepper. I use Lipton red label tea for color. I boil it and then turn the stove off and add Lipton Green label tea which adds flavor but it cannot be boiled. I use that as garnish. I let it sit for a minute or two with the Green label and then strain.